“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone” – John Steinbeck
All I can say is that the above quote is spot on! I have wanted to go to the Amalfi Coast for years. Has anyone seen the 90s movie ‘Only You’? If you have, you’ll know what I mean! That was the first time I heard of Positano and saw images of this picturesque village, perched on top of a steep and dramatic cliff side.
I think Positano’s charm is the fact that it hasn’t changed over the years. No big resorts and tourist gimmicks here. It is still essentially a small, peaceful village (albeit full of tourists). There are no roads (apart from the main road that gets you there) and to get anywhere in this place, you need to climb a whole bunch of stairs! My calves felt the burn!
From the small pebbly beach with its blue and turquoise water to the quaint tiny alleyways lined with boutiques, cafes and art galleries, I loved everything about Positano. Its perfect location on the Amalfi coast is also ideal – places like Capri, Sorrento and Ravello are not too far away!
How to get there: I’ll be totally honest, getting to the Amalfi Coast is not a piece of cake. There are no direct ferries, buses or trains (usually a change in Sorrento is needed). So if you’re on a budget and don’t want to fork out on a taxi which can cost around €100, be prepared for a 3ish hour journey from the airport (depending on where you are headed of course). As my friend and I had an extra early flight, we opted for a taxi to avoid the hassle and I am so glad we did – the journey was cut short by half. Our driver, Antonio, was also brilliant and gave us a mini guided tour on the way. Relaxing and enjoying the breathtaking views on the way to Positano was a perfect start to the trip!
Things to do: Positano is a brilliant base to explore the rest of the Amalfi coast. Capri is around half an hour away by Ferry and so is Amalfi, from where you can take a bus to stunning Ravello.
In terms of activities in Positano itself , there aren’t a whole bunch of things on offer as the vibe is very chilled out and relaxed – somewhere you can be one with nature. There are many hikes that you can do e.g. ‘The Path of Gods (though we chickened out because of the hot weather but, nearly everyone who has done it, highly recommends it!). Apart from chilling on the beach, we also saw people hiring kayaks and exploring the coast.
Positano’s main church, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta features a stunning majolica-tiled dome and a 13th-century Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary. Pop in if you’re around – you can’t miss it as its visible from most places in Positano!
Most people don’t know that Positano has 2 beaches. The main beach by the dock is where most hang out but just a 15 minute walk away, you’ll find a more secluded beach (fornillo) which is a great option if you’re looking for somewhere quieter to sunbathe.
How to get around: The Ferry is the only way to get to Capri but is also quite expensive, around €18 each way. You can also take the ferry to places like Sorrento, Salerno and Amalfi but, if you’re on a budget, use the buses (the SITA bus goes along the coast and costs around €1.50-2 one way.
Places to eat: For breakfast, I would recommend Caffe Positano. The mushroom and spinach omelettes were delicious and the coffee was the best I had. Sadly, Case e Bottaga was closed otherwise that is also meant to be a great place for breakfast or lunch.
For Pizza, try out Covo Dei Saraceni. We loved the Quattro Fromaggio and tuna pizzas! The takeaway part of the restaurant also does an unbelievable lemon sorbet. You can’t leave Positano without trying it!
Capricci also has a good menu with lots of variety – the seafood pasta with clams and mussels was amazing!
My favourite restaurant however has to be Da Adolfo. Just the epitome of great italian food (blog post coming soon) and getting there is very James Bond-esque!
Finally, for a special treat, visit the hotel Le Sirenuse. We popped in for coffee and were stunned by the amazing views of Positano and the beautiful, classic decor of the hotel which, incidentally, is well known for an amazing buffet breakfast.
Positano, you are a true gem – i can’t wait to come back!